Community Pollinator Garden Maintenance

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Maintenance of a community pollinator garden is essential to ensuring its continued success as a thriving habitat and beautiful community space. On this page, you'll find helpful tips, best practices, and resources for maintaining the health and vibrancy of a pollinator garden. Whether you're a seasoned gardener or a beginner, everyone can contribute to supporting pollinators and helping to preserve the vital ecosystems they sustain. 

General Cleanup & Maintenance

  • Natives need less maintenance.
  • Water deeply until established. Watering twice a week for a couple of weeks. Then once a week after (Perennials until following winter. Shrubs for a year. Trees every other day for a month, then twice a week until established-2 years). Don’t overwater either. Check soil at base for moisture.
  • Don’t fertilize or use insecticides.
  • Leaves provide organic matter and hold moisture. Mulch if leaf litter is sparse. Don’t let mulch touch base of plants.
  • Recommended to cut weeds down to ground instead of pulling to reduce seed germination.

    Establishment Phase - Year 1-3

    • Monthly inspection and weeding.
    • Monitor invasives.
    • Watering schedule per above.
    • Replace mulch each spring (3-5” deep) – Arlington Free Mulch.
    Maintenance Phase - Year 4+
    • Weed 4x per year.
    • Do not water unless severe drought.
    • Mulch in spring if necessary – Arlington Free Mulch.

Learn more about landscape maintenance

Seasonal Cleanup & Maintenance

Spring

  • In the spring, delay cleanup of removing dead stalks, leaves, and grasses for as long as possible, as these may be home to overwintering invertebrates. Bees like hollow stalks and leaves for eggs. Wait until trees begin to bloom and mowing becomes regular. By this time, bees will likely have emerged.
  • Oak or beech leaves decompose slowly, so removal of some or most these may be beneficial to prevent leaves from smothering new growth.

Specific Plants 

  • Amelanchier canadensis (Serviceberry): If you must prune the tree, do so immediately after flowering (roughly April through June). Prune before July when the plant sets next year’s buds. Pruning not typically needed.
  • Amsonia tubernaemontana (Eastern Bluestar): Deadhead to prevent self-seeding if this is desired after blooming (roughly May through June). Can be divided in spring when it is dormant. Make sure each division has one eye.
  • Cornus florida (Flowering Dogwood): If pruned, do so after flowers (roughly May through June). Pruning not typically needed.
  • Asclepias incarnata (Swamp Milkweed): Foliage is slow to emerge in the spring, don’t cover area with deep mulch.
  • Asclepias tuberosa ‘Hello Yellow’ (Hello Yellow Butterfly Weed): Foliage is slow to emerge in the spring, don’t cover area with deep mulch. Trim back last year’s growth in early spring prior to new growth.
  • Heuchera americana ‘Palace Purple’ (Palace Purple Coral Bells): Clumps should be divided every 3-4 years in spring or fall.
  • Phlox divaricata (Woodland Phlox): Fruit capsules appear after blooming on old stems and can benefit pollinators.  Cut back stems after blooming to combat mildew if present (roughly May or June). 
  • Carex eburnean (Bristle-Leaved Sedge): Cut foliage to the ground and remove in late winter/early spring if wanted. Trim before new growth emerges.
  • Carex appalachica (Appalachian Sedge): Trim it back to the ground in late winter/early spring to watch it re-flush a vibrant green in the spring if wanted. Trim before new growth emerges.
  • Eurybia divaricate (White Wood Aster): Can be divided in spring

Summer

Specific Plants

  • Asclepias tuberosa ‘Hello Yellow’ (Hello Yellow Butterfly Weed): Deadheading flowers will stimulate a second bloom cycle.
  • Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Ruby Slippers’ (Ruby Slippers Oakleaf Hydrangea): Likes summer mulch to help retain soil moisture.
  • Itea virginica ‘Fountain of Rouge’ (Fountains of Rouge Virginia Sweetspire): Blooms on previous season’s wood, can be sheared after flowering (roughly late June to early summer). Pruning is not generally necessary. If you must prune, do so as soon as the flowers fade to ensure abundant blooms next year. However, old blooms provide seeds for birds.
  • Eurybia divaricate (White Wood Aster): Shear the plant to 6” in early summer to create a compact plant form.
  • Rudbeckia fulgida ‘Viette’s Little Suzy’ (Viette’s Little Suzy’ Black Eyed Susans): Deadhead spent flowers to encourage additional blooming. 

Fall

  • To get the most benefit of providing food and shelter from natives, leave everything (stalks and leaves) alone over the winter, except as noted below. 

Specific Plants

  • Amelanchier canadensis (Serviceberry): Prompt fall cleanup of leaves can prevent winter fungus.
  • Amsonia tubernaemontana (Eastern Bluestar): Can be divided in fall when it is dormant. Make sure each division has one eye.
  • Hydrangea quercifolia ‘Ruby Slippers’ (Ruby Slippers Oakleaf Hydrangea): Blooms occur on old wood: Prune if needed immediately after flowering (roughly early to mid fall).
  • Heuchera americana ‘Palace Purple’ (Palace Purple Coral Bells): Clumps should be divided every 3-4 years in spring.

Winter

Specific Plants

  • Amsonia tubernaemontana (Eastern Bluestar): Plant can be cut close to the ground or left for winter interest.

  • Asclepias tuberosa ‘Hello Yellow’ (Hello Yellow Butterfly Weed): Mulching plants in winter will help prevent frost-heaving where the soil freezes and thaws causing the roots to be pushed towards the surface and exposed.

  •  Clethra alnifolia ‘Hummingbird’ (Hummingbird Sweet Pepperbush): Prune if needed in late winter prior to new growth forming, just before the plant breaks dormancy. This will avoid cutting off next season’s blooms. Responds well to pruning.

  • Hydrangea arborescens ‘Haas Halo’ (Haas Halo Hydrangea): Pruning in late winter will result in larger blooms and more compact shrub. Do so before buds appear.